The Tranquillity of Alentejo

Think all 3 of us breathed a sigh of relief on arriving at Quinta do Pomarinho in alto Alentejo 😃 - a lovely huge estate, with a range of accommodations, run by a Dutch couple Robert and Joop. Peace and tranquillity for a few days 😃  We rejuvenated ourselves by exploring the surrounding countryside, the vast cork and oak forests, the beautiful medieval hill top towns, and in the evening being looked after well by Robert and Joop in the gorgeous little taberna they have built, complete with crackling fire - lovely food, drink and company to wile  away a few hours 😃

Home for 5 days 😀

 

Beautiful evening sunsets

Castelo de Vide, a beautiful hill top town complete with fortress and numerous thermal springs was interesting to explore, particularly around the charming narrow medieval streets. The old Jewish synagogue is also one of the few obvious examples of the country’s former Jewish population.

Rooftops from the castle

Beautiful medieval streets

Inventive ways to dry your washing 😂

 

Really liked this art work in the main square - Portuguese Banksy??

Despite attracting many visitors, and clearly benefiting from tourism, there did seem an authenticity to the town which we really liked. Visited this local cafe a couple of times - the owner very welcoming, inviting us to sit inside with Ruby, when the weather was miserable. Cakes were delicious - apparently a cafe with a far and wide reputation for regional specialities 😊

Almond tart with a sweet crispy topping - my favourite 😍

Bolema - a traditional apple and cinnamon slice - Dave's favourite 😍

Spent a few days walking and exploring the countryside around, wandering along old medieval cobbled drovers paths and through miles and miles of extensive cork and oak forests; Orange trees in full fruit, and olives being harvested. Even new born lambs!!!

Cork is harvested once every 9 years

Cork Forests

 

The hilltop town of Marvao is a gem - another well preserved medieval village, with a hugely imposing fortress overlooking the border with Spain.

Marvao Castle

Exploring Marvao

From Marvao to Spain!

Unfortunately the rain got the better of us that day, so we headed off to a small restaurant in a local village nearby for lunch - a truly authentic and charming experience. - run by a husband and wife team.

Charming restaurant owner

We were charmed by the owner, complete with flat cap 🤣 (thought there was only Dave wandering around Alentejo in a flat cap!) An amazing menu which she was able to explain where everything was sourced from around the region, and the jamon from over the border in Spain.

Spicy prawns, delicious - becoming a theme 🤣

Local sheep's cheese baked with tomato jam

Moving a bit further south we explored some of Alentejos other delights 😃 The cork forests, olive groves and fields of vines become even more extensive, more Roman remains, and more quaint hilltop towns. Monsaraz is perhaps Alentejo’s jewel in the crown, as far as hilltop villages go, complete with castle overlooking Spain - now classed as a model village. We arrived at dusk, a lovely time to wander round and explore, particularly as most tourists had left for the day. We found a fabulous bodega where we drank wine from a local producer, chatting with the owner, mainly about the economic challenges facing many Portuguese people - all sounded very familiar in terms of the unequal distribution of resources ☹️ Stayed the night in a lovely tree lined cobbled parking area for vans, below the castle walls.

Monsaraz at dusk

Charming Monsaraz

Gateway into Monsaraz

Spot the wine taster behind the 12 litre bottle of wine 😂

Stopped at a tiny Paderia on our way to Evora the next morning. Yet again, the assistant was friendly, spoke English, and was very welcoming. Despite the place being the smallest bakery we've ever been in, there managed to be 4 locals all sitting there drinking coffee, chatting - a good start to the day 😊

Bakery was so tiny Dave could barely get through the door!

 

Evora is the capital of Alentetjo, and full of Roman ruins. Perhaps most famous is the extensive aqueduct which runs for miles, and was built in the 1500s to bring water to the city. The remains of the Roman Temple, built in the first century to honour the visit of Emperor Augustus, are also quite spectacular, and situated right in the centre of the town. We reflected again on how easy it was to have access to these national treasures, being able to walk / drive right up to them, no barriers, and also free of charge.

Roman Temple at Evora

Leaving Alentejo now (for the time being) we decided to stay at one of Portugal's EasyCamp sites - local producers who, for a small fee (in return for some of their lovely produce) allow people with vans to stay the night on their premise -  Filipe Palhoca, wine producer was our host for the night. In the short time we were there we saw many local cars arriving and loading up with boxes of wine - 3 litres for less than 7 euros 🤣 We were however assured that the 3 bottles of wine we received in return for our 19 euros was some of their best 👌

A lovely place to chill for the evening, soak up the last of the sun, and of course sample the wines!

Filipe Palhoca vines

Parked up for the night at the winery

Happy with our 3 bottles of wine 😀

We've really enjoyed our initial exploration of Alentejo - the region definitely has an authentic charm, is friendly and welcoming, and of course beautiful. People really seem to be living according to their culture, norms and values, and not succumbing to the to the pull towards mass tourism- a pleasant experience 👍 Really loved all the natural wonders, the history, the wines, and the cakes 🤣 Weather was mixed, so not sure we saw it at its best - but we definitely felt rejuvenated at the end - just what we needed! We will be back 👍