Coastal Alentejo to the Algarve

 

Heading south the weather wasn't great, and certainly not what was expected - by us or the Portuguese! A huge stormy weather front was coming in from the Atlantic and seemed to follow us everywhere we went. The Portuguese were very grateful for the rain as there had been drought conditions for the past 3 years, and already talks were happening about rationing water, particularly within the tourism industry, next year. So, locals were happy, but we were not 🤣 Anyway, nothing else for it - we put on our waterproofs and got on with it!

The coastline and beaches along the Atlantic coast were amazing. Miles and miles of sandy beaches, rocky headlands, which at times very much reminded us of the west coast of Scotland - the weather being similar 🤣





Our plan was to explore the Rota Vicentina - a network of walking and biking trails, along the coast, connecting small villages and towns, which have been developed by local businesses in an attempt to promote sustainable tourism. Spent a few days walking various parts of the trail, when the weather allowed, but under more favourable conditions this would be a fabulous long distance walk to undertake sometime in the future 😊

Aljezur beach

Sunny but chilly 😃


The small town of Aljezur towards the south was interesting - still very much a surfer hotspot, but definitely noticed an increase in prices, which presumably reflects arriving in the Algarve, from Alentejo!! Our camp was within a eucalyptus forest - I guess this is all about keeping cool in the blazing heat of summer - we didn't have that problem 😊

Camping among the eucalyptus trees at Aljezur

M
Weeping sap from the eucalyptus - hard and crunchy, and apparently a sign of attack from a long horned borer insect!!





Explored some of the biking routes, mainly along forest tracks and sandy trails - right up my street, but maybe a little tame for Dave 🤣

Biking amongst the palm trees


Lovely biking stop for lunch



Spicy prawns - again!



The Fisherman's Trail forms part of the Rota Vicentina - decided to walk a section between Praia de Luz and Burgau on the south coast - short because it was raining 😒

Dramatic rocky headlands and coves along the Fisherman's Trail



On Fiona's recommendation we headed to Praia do Zavial - a beautiful rocky cove on the Algarve, popular with surfers - and a popular cafe 😊 Sadly the cafe was closed for the winter (as expected) but we did manage a lovely walk across the beach and over the headland. 

Hiking up from Praia do Zavial


Praia do Zavial

Zavial late in the day 


Ended up staying at an eco camp not far from Zavial - again in the eucalyptus trees. Interesting to see the number of people (mainly surfers) who seem to be pitched up there for the winter season!

Ruby settling into the eco camp for the night 😉


A drink and a pizza at the eco bar did the trick that night 😊



By this stage the rain was really getting the better of us - so we pitched up at Camping Olhao for the night, in an attempt to avoid being further battered by the storms, and hopefully get some tasty seafood, for which the town is famous (according to Alistair Sawday) 🤞 Was totally amazed at how many vans were set up there for the winter - but at 13 euros a night it's probably cheaper to spend the winter there rather than staying at home 🤣 Didn't make it to the famous fish market before it closed for the day, so settled for a late lunch at one of the adjoining restaurants.


Photograph of the famous fish market behind


Fried hake and anchovies with tomato rice and salad - apparently a local speciality 🤣



By this stage it's fair to say that everywhere was flooding - never seen rain quite like it before! So decided to head slightly north, away from the coast to the Shamwari Hilltop Retreat - close to the border with Spain - a place we had looked at before setting off. Arrived in torrential rain (and reports of cars floating down the river!) but what an amazing place it is - the dreamscape of southern African adventurer Helena 😊 - a rustic eco retreat, surrounded by nature. We immediately felt a connection with the place, and despite rubbish weather, had an amazing couple of days exploring the area, and meeting people from around the world, many of whom were looking to buy land and settle in the area.


Walking at Shamwari

Shamwari tents among the trees


Cafe bar at Shamwari


Unfortunately, the rain didn't look set to stop for the next week, so we packed up, and headed east over the border into Spain. But, we will be back at Shamwari for Christmas - hopefully next time with a bit of sunshine ☀️ Its probably fair to say that this week hasn't been one of our best experiences, and that's mainly due to the weather. We had hoped to get out and about more and explore some of the less known parts of the south, but only managed snatches between the rains. The coastline is stunningly beautiful though, and would definitely recommend a trip walking the Rota Vicentina historical route or the Fisherman's Trail, both long distance paths stretching from the Algarve to just south of Lisbon 👍






Sunsets from Shamwari




Comments

  1. Anonymous12 December 2022 at 13:30

    Glorious photos x

    ReplyDelete
  2. Marie16 December 2022 at 10:42

    Sounds and looks amazing despite the rain - what an adventure 🤩

    ReplyDelete

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